If you’ve frequented The Shwits long enough, you know that German Christmas markets are one of my all-time favorite things. Our visits to the Weihnachtsmarkts (also called Christkindlmarkts) started in Münster, Germany, in 2014, our first Christmas season abroad. They’ve since become an annual tradition, but the pandemic and three years in South America forced a hiatus. But we’re back, baby! Which is fitting, given that 2024 is our 10th Christmas season abroad!
This year, I really made the most of the Christmas market season, made even better by our special guest – my mom!
My goal was to send her home utterly sick of Christmas markets, and I think I did a pretty good job, given that we went to markets in four cities in two countries. Let’s start with the obvious.
München
I always daydreamed about how glorious it would be to live in a city with Christkindlmarkts, and this year I got to live that dream!
More than 20 markets are scattered throughout the city, but the main one is in the Marienplatz, the main square. If this is the only market you visit, that’s OK because it has quite a spread, spanning from the Karlsplatz-Stachus, with an ice skating rink, to the Marienplatz in the shadow of the New Town Hall. The whole area is walkable, with plenty of food and gift stalls.
My favorite discovery this year, however, was the Rindermarkt, which is the old square for agricultural trading. The Rindermarkt is only a block behind the Marienplatz, yet it feels like a local secret since it is always less crowded. There’s only food and drinks here, but you can have cherry glühwein, a feuerzangenbowle, and smoked fish all in the same area. Plus, there’s a weihnachtspyramide (Christmas pyramid), and those are my favorite.
My second favorite Munich market was the Kaiserhof der Residenz, tucked away in the courtyard of the Residence, the city palace. They, too, have a Christmas pyramid but have the added bonus of some unique animatronics that make this market worth visiting (you’ll just have to see it for yourself 😆). It’s also a bit warmer than the others since it’s a courtyard and protected from the wind.
Mom and I also visited the Medieval market in the Wittelsbacherplatz (nice if you want something a bit different), the Sendlinger Tor market (don’t make a special trip for it), and tried to visit the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) market in the English Garden (but it was closed that day). We also swung through the Pasinger Christkindlmarkt in our neighborhood, and Shane and I visited the Haidhauser Weihnachtsmarkt (another local market). So, while there are still plenty of markets left to patron, we got off to a great start!
Next up…
Nürnberg
Nürnberg (Nuremberg, in English) is an easy two-hour train ride from Munich. So, we hopped an early train for a day of Christmas market cheer in one of the oldest markets in Germany; it started in 1628!
Two things we didn’t realize before starting this adventure. 1. We happened to go on opening weekend. 2. The market in Nuremberg’s old town is one of the most popular in Germany. Needless to say, things got a bit crowded by the evening. 😳
Nonetheless, the markets were beautiful, and there were some unique vendors. So, it was worth the visit!
Berlin
Shane and I visited Berlin for the markets in 2017. Berlin is one of those cities where there is always something new to see, so we were excited to go back! This time, we had the added bonus of meeting up with my aunt and uncle, as well as a friend from Ecuador who’s now studying in Berlin.
If you thought Munich had a lot of markets, then you’ll be shocked to know that Berlin has them beat, with over 80 markets throughout the metro region. We made it to three. 😆
First up was the Wintermarkt am Humboldtforum, on the Museumsinsel (Museums Island). The light projections on the building were really impressive, and it was here that we met our friend, Michelle.
Next up was the Berliner Weihnachtszeit at the Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall). This market has a little bit of everything: an amazing view of the TV tower, an ice skating rink (that surrounds a statue of Neptune), a Ferris wheel (Riesenrad), and plenty of food and shops. This one is definitely worth a visit!
Our final market was the WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt, which we visited in 2017. It’s a 2 euro entrance fee, but it’s worth it. There are a lot more handmade goods here, as well as indoor and outdoor stalls for food and shopping. We also ate dinner here (indoors!) at Lutter & Wegner, which I’d highly recommend.
And last but certainly not least.
Salzburg, Austria
Surprisingly enough, Salzburg is also only a two-hour train ride from Munich. So, Mom and I spent a few days there learning about Mozart and living our Sound of Music dreams (more on that later!). There’s also a fantastic Christmas market in the old town!
We also accidentally stumbled on the Krampus run, which was the ultimate surprise! In case you’re unfamiliar with Krampus, he’s part of the Christmas folklore in the alpine regions of Central and Eastern Europe. Krampus accompanies Saint Nicholas. If you’ve been good, Saint Nicholas will give you a gift. If not, Krampus will throw you in his basket and leave you in the woods. European traditions for “bad” children are much more intense than in the United States. 😆
So, we ran into Salzburg’s Krampus parade, where the Krampuses wander the street with Saint Nicholas, harassing (in a fun way) bystanders as they wander through town. It was a real treat!
I’d say the 2024 Christmas market season was a success! But there’s always more to explore next year. 😜
Happy New Year, and best wishes for 2025! 🍾
Tschüss,
The Shwits 
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